Retinoids reward patience. A simple way to introduce them, what's normal in the first few weeks, and the signs it's time to ease off.
Retinoids have the deepest evidence base of any topical we prescribe — for texture, fine lines, congestion and pigment. They also cause more people to abandon their routine than anything else, almost always because they were started too quickly.
A schedule that works
Begin twice a week, at night, on completely dry skin, using a pea-sized amount for the whole face. Hold that frequency for two weeks. If your skin is comfortable, move to every second night, then nightly if tolerated. Many skins do beautifully at three or four nights a week indefinitely.
What is normal
Mild dryness and some flaking around weeks two to four is expected as cell turnover accelerates. A short-lived purge of congestion can also occur. Both settle.
What is not
Stinging on application, persistent redness, tightness or a burning sensation means the barrier is compromised. Pause, rebuild with a simple cleanser and moisturiser for a week, then restart at a lower frequency. And never begin a retinoid and a new exfoliating acid in the same fortnight.
